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There are three things to be done in Hoi An, and all of them can be dangerous if taken to the extreme. They are: shop, eat, and have clothing custom made. I’ll move from least to most dangerous. First, the shopping. The streets of this coastal city in central Vietnam are lined with ancient and intricate buildings. In traditional style, the buildings are two to three stories high, with a family living on the second and third floor and their shop occupying the first floor. As a result, we often saw several family members relaxing in front of their store, smiling at us as we passed by or kindly inviting us in to view their assortment of goods. Many of the buildings have vibrant paper lanterns adorning their balconies that sway gracefully in the gentle river breeze. The whole ambiance just puts you in the mood to buy something Vietnamese-ish. Luckily, the shops are conducive to this desire. They are lined with high-end souvenirs. This was ultra exciting after three months of elbowing our way through countless markets in a dozen different Asia cities only to be disappointed by the low-quality junk being sold. In Hoi An we were tempted by quality handbags, silk ties, jewelry, wooden serving dishes, ceramic vases, and intricate statues. Our Christmas shopping instantaneously kicked into high-gear.
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One of the tempting shops in Hoi An
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The supplier of all the lanterns in the shop windows
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The second most dangerous thing to do in Vietnam is eat. That is because the food is soooo good and soooo cheap. A winning combination in anyone’s book. Hoi An is known for two delightful dishes. First there is cau lau, which is a noodle dish mixed with vegetables, toasted rice paper and tasty slices of pork. Supposedly
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true cau lau can only be made in Hoi An. This is because the water for cooking the dish must come from the Ba Le well, an ancient water hole located in the middle of a block of homes in Hoi An. The other Hoi An food specialty is the white rose. It is a delicate shrimp dumpling where the dough has been scrunched up to resemble a rose. Very simple, very delicious. Last, my description of Hoi An would not be complete without a fond word regarding Vietnamese coffee. United States coffee lovers take heed. This is different. But if you give it a chance it is a fun and interesting change up from our standard brew.. It is a real treat, especially for those who enjoy their coffee strong and sweet. It is equally as good cold as it is hot. We will definitely be purchasing a Vietnamese coffee filter when we return home as Vietnamese Coffee is as much fun to make as it is to drink.
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No better way to start the day, or enjoy an afternoon, than with a Vietnamese coffee.
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Last, the most dangerous aspect of Hoi An. The tailors. Hoi An is famous for its tailors. You can have clothes custom made for half what you would pay for off the rack clothes in the West. They can copy any design. Find what you are looking for in a magazine and they will recreate it in any color, with any fabric and with any unique touches you desire. As we walked down the streets of Hoi An we were overwhelmed by the number of tailors. They are everywhere—from high ends shops with teams of beautiful Vietnamese girls working the front of the shop to small, family-run shops where grandma takes your measurements, the kids pull down the fabric bolt from the top shelf and mom and dad handle the money. We didn’ t walk ten paces without passing a storefront lined with mannequins three deep sporting the various fashions. Just when we thought we resisted the temptation to have just something made, just for the experience, one of the beautiful Vietnamese women was at our side telling us how beautiful we would look in that coat or suit that we thought we were eyeing so slyly. The next thing we knew we were flipping through pattern books and discussing the quality and color of wool that we wanted for our new clothes. All in five minutes.
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Jarrod's dress shirt getting a nip and tuck
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Three days and roughly 15 fittings later we left Hoi An with one suit for Jarrod, one wool coat and a dress for me, and ten shirts and ten pairs of pants between the both of us.. It was a blast! Our days consisted of two to three fittings, intermingled with a bit of shopping and lots of lounging around at the restaurants enjoying the delicious food. We did manage to carve out one entire morning to attend a cooking class. The class started with a tour of the local market. After moving past some interesting and unidentifiable produce our guide led us to the meat and fish section of the market. Not surprisingly, we encountered some interesting and unidentifiable cuts of meat and types of fish. There was one fish that stood out, mainly because we wanted to be sure never to accidentally order it in a restaurant. I don’t remember the Vietnamese name for it, but between fits of giggling our guide explained that it is commonly referred to as “cow tongue” fish. After looking at the picture I’m confident you will
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Not one of Vietnam's most tempting dishes
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understand why. After the market we boarded the Red Bridge Cooking School’s private boat for a short sail down the Thu Bon river to the restaurant where we would learn to make rice paper, fresh shrimp rolls, crispy Hoi An pancakes stuffed with shrimp, calamari salad served in a pineapple boat and Vietnamese eggplant in a clay pot. Our cooking instructor also taught us how to make roses out of tomato skins and fans out of cucumbers, but don’t be expecting that when you come to our next dinner party!
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return to vietnam overview next vietnam journal>
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