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Different. Sometimes different is good, sometimes different is bad. We thought Valparaiso was good different. After 13 months of travel, cities start to blend together—tall buildings, main streets, restaurant row, shopping district, same, same, same. Valparaiso has all of these “city” elements, but due to its unique geography and location the “same old, same old” takes on a delightful twist.
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Valparaiso is located on the coast and is home to a commercial and naval harbor. That alone gives the city a bustling atmosphere. But we gave our heart to Valparaiso when we boarded our first ascensor and clattered to the top of cerro Concepcion (Concepcion Hill). Much of Valparaiso sits atop (# of hills, dramatically steep hills. When we say dramatically steep we mean it. We’re from San Francisco, we know hills. The hills in Valparaiso are so steep that the city boasts 17 ascensores, which are rickety elevator-like contraptions that transport people up and down the hills. Think of old metal boxes that travel vertically up and down the hillsides. Jarrod and I aren’t afraid of heights, but as we watched the ground recede from sight and listened to the moaning and groaning of the ascensor we both had thoughts of plummeting to the ground.
Safe and sound atop cerro Concepcion Jarrod and I did what we do best—wander. In fact, we wandered for
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From cotton candy pink to sea foam green, no color is too bold for the houses of Valparaiso.
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three straight days. Luckily for us, wandering is a highly recommended activity in Valparaiso because a visual feast lurks around every corner. We first noticed the brightly colored houses made out of (corrugated steel). A single street boasts as many different colors as a box of Crayolas. As if the houses are not alluring enough, Valparaiso is known to be a bohemian artist’s enclave. Outside the handful of official galleries, the city itself is an open canvas for local artists. Outstanding murals cover all building sides, cement walls and staircases. There is hardly a blank surface left untouched. Some are official, such as the ones in (insert mural gallery info here) and some are more free-form, like high-end graffiti!
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Lawn art in Valparaiso
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Erin in front of one of the street murals
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Then there are the works of art that we don’t know how to classify. We just know that we admire their creativity. Our favorite was a television set artistically perched in a front yard with the message “Turn off the television. Live your life” painted on it.
With its artistic vibe and premier views Valparaiso charms those who are cool with a little bit of grunge and a touch of funky. We found it a welcome change from the glass and steel that dominate most big cities. We place it at the top of our list of favorite cities in Chile.
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return to chile overview next chile journal>
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Glamorous Graffiti!
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