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We boarded a bus this morning and drove through the rolling hills outside of El Calafate, Argentina en route to
the Perito Moreno Glacier. Soon the rolling hills morphed into mountains and we began to “ooh” and “aah” over
the alpine lakes tucked into the valleys of these granite wonders. As our bus climbed up, up and up the crystal
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clear lakes morphed into bright green lakes. We racked our brain
for that random piece of information we filed away in Norway
after touring the glacier museum. Why are glacier lakes green
and sort of milky? Hmmmm…oh yes—it has to do with the
sediment that the glacier scrapes up and carries along and then
eventually deposited into the water. See? We have learned
something on this trip! Anyway, we knew we were approaching
the glacier when we saw these green lakes.
Even though we knew we were approaching the glacier,
nothing and I mean nothing, could prepare us for seeing the
Perito Moreno glacier. IT. IS. MASSIVE. It completely dwarfed the
glaciers that Jarrod and I spent hours marveling at in Norway. As
soon as the bus stopped we hopped out and made our way to
the viewing platforms across from the glacier. These platforms
allowed us to get up close to the front of the glacier while still
being able to see the expanse and length of it. We stared into
the folds and cracks of the glacier that rose over 20 stories out of
the water. The immensity of this block of ice and how it can cut
through mountains is incredible. You would think that after fifteen
minutes of looking at a block of ice one would have enough and
be more than ready to move on. Not so. We spent two hours
walking from platform to platform and the wonder inspired by the
glacier never diminished.
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Since we don't technically have a home to return to
in the U.S. we started considering alternate forms of
shelter. This icy overhang is in our top 3.
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Exploring the crevasses and cliffs of the Perito Moreno Glacier
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From a distance it looks impossible to walk on the glacier as it is all jagged peaks and deep crevices. But a
short hike up the side of the glacier brought us to a relatively safe area and here we donned crampons and
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gloves and followed our guide up and on to the glacier. The first challenge
is walking with the crampons. All I could imagine was gouging the inside
of my calf with this set of claws now attached to my feet. The second
challenge is in trusting the crampons. Since our species is not inclined to
use our toenails as traction devices it took a hill or two before I believed
that I could walk straight up and down a steep incline of ice without
slipping. After mastering those two challenges, we were off to experience
one of the most exciting two hours of our trip.
We followed our guide as he led us up and down the hills made of ice,
into caves and overhangs made by the ice, and around bright, glowing
puddles of glacier melt. Looking around, we were totally enveloped by a
world of white. And with the crampons, this world was ours to explore.
The two hours flew by and before we were ready it was time to head
back. Jarrod found a small trickle of a river splashing down the glacier and
filled up our water bottle. We were curious to see if it tasted better,
worse, or the same as fancy $3 bottled water. The verdict…the same.
Only better because it is much, much colder! As we made our way back
down the glacier we were met with one last surprise. Our tour guide
served us a glass of scotch on the rocks, with the “rocks” being little
pieces of ice he carved from the glacier. We toasted to the Perito Moreno
glacier, to a fun day, and to hopes of one day returning to this awesome
sight.
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Trust the crampons Erin, trust the
crampons
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return to argentina overview next argentina journal>
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